Not to mention the flocking is easier. Hand painting might be cool idea to show off for your general, but an entire army... No.
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Not to mention the flocking is easier. Hand painting might be cool idea to show off for your general, but an entire army... No.
And the internet bites back!
Eh, I disagree. I think a hand painted pattern would look much better, though, certainly, less realistic. This is coming from someone who paints, like, paintings, as a hobby, so, take that as you will.
It was a joke. I was not, repeat not, being serious.
Seriously guys.
Oh? No if I had that level of paint skill, I honestly want to do it with my Malifaux Rasputina crew, but then again my 35 point scrap list (normal locally) constists of 7 models.
I agree it look cool. Plus all of us wish we could do that, but most of us can't.
I didn't mean to be offensive to you.:smalleek: Sorry. And yes the joke went over my head... :smalltongue:
Here's the test piece for Ashlynn's ATGMs (and perhaps, much later, my Cygnar color scheme).
Arcane Tempest Gun Mage:
Did you use a camera or image filter, something seems off in the later pictures. Overall I like the basic color scheme, even if mine is basically the opposite (mostly black with blue and yellow trim.)
No, but I've noticed that some of the colors get washed out recently (Ashlynn was way worse than this one her surcoat looked absolutely grey). He's white with purple trim, and black leather.
Painting Night Lord's blue?
Easily fixed with an Asureman blue wash.
Learning how to paint Night Lords lightning patterns?
Hard to start but becomes simple quite quickly.
Trying to paint a copy of Vincent Van Gogh's "Starry Night" onto said Night Lord's cloak?
Why did I think this was a god idea. :smalleek:
This had better be worth it.
Well, here's one to tide you over 'til later.
American Alligator Snapping TurtleIronback Spitter:
Heh, that reminds me of Tokka from Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles.
You look like you're getting the hang of the whole "highlighting" thing. Good-o.
Huh. I guess it does.
Okay, I wanted to show this off. It's going to be the most complicated piece I've done to date. It's a Warmachine Mercenaries Vanguard Light Warjack. This is the front of his shield, and it's taken me all afternoon to paint it:Spoiler
Stage 1: Hormagaunt Purple/Leviathan Purple Wash on one side, Space Wolves Grey on the other.
http://i675.photobucket.com/albums/v...6/DSC01590.jpg
Stage 2: Liche Purple on one side, Skull White on the other.
http://i675.photobucket.com/albums/v...6/DSC01592.jpg
Stage 3: Pig Iron Rivets, highlighted with Radiant Platinum. Brass Balls on the spikes, highlighted with Burnished Gold.
http://i675.photobucket.com/albums/v...6/DSC01593.jpg
Quick question - anyone know a good GW or Tamiya colour to use on Stryker's armour? Those are the only brands that I know are sold over-the-counter here, anything else (like Privateer Press' own paints) I'd have to order online. I've got Dwarf Bronze, but I was worried that it'd be a bit too dark.
Also, would Burnished Gold highlighted with Shining Gold work for the gold parts of warjacks and Stormblades?
And now that I think about it, I should've ordered some P3 paints at the same time I ordered the replacement sword and buckler for my Stormblade Officer (sword had broken just below the guard and the buckler was missing entirely). I took the chance to order that good model of pHaley so I should've done the paints as well. Ah well, live and learn.
That shield's looking nice. I'm really glad to see your taking more opportunities to try out highlighting.
The best gold paint I've found is P3's Blighted Gold- I use that as the base gold color for all my metallic golds. But, as you don't want to order online (not blaming you for that) I'd have to say that burnished gold is a good base color, bu I'd give it a wash with Baal Red and then either Babab Black or Devlan Mud to darken it down, then highlight it up. Tamiya's Gold Leaf is a good highlight color, but it can be difficult to work with on a brush as it is an alcohol based paint. Finally, use very carefully controlled Mithril SIlver for reflection points on your gold to make it really shine.
I finished painting the rabbit and weasel minis from Reaper that will be used on a couple more dios I'm working on for the Darksword contest. Now I just need to finish the main figures and the bases.
Thanks, I'm trying to get better at this. :smallsmile:
No photos yet?
Thanks. :smallsmile:
Progress Report: So far today, I've finished the top of the 'jack and the collar. I'm currently working on the arms, head, and waist
Don't use Tomiya paints with a brush: Tomiya is made for use with an airbrush, so it will start to smear as you paint it and it takes a long time for the paint to completely dry.
As for highlighting gold, I would start with GW's Shining Gold, and then a mid-tone highlight of 1:1 Shining Gold to Burnished Gold, give it a wash of either Gryphonne Sepia, Badab Black, Devlan Mud, or Ogryn Flesh, depending on how you want the gold's low-tones to look, then redefine the 1:1 Shining Gold to Burnished Gold tone and then finish of with a high-tone highlight of straight Burnished Gold.
Optionally, if you want to have the gold be very bright, you can give some further highlights of 1:1 Burnished Gold to Mythril Silver, and then a final extreme highlight of Mythril Silver.
Mind you, this looks far better if you use direct-light highlighting, or graduated highlighting/feathering, rather than hard-edge highlighting.
Ugh. This thing is killing me. I'm down to the legs, putting it together, final highlighting, and basing. Maybe one more day, and it'll be finished. :smallsigh:
EDIT: More pics in the meantime.
Updated Ashlynn: (Highlighted her armor with a bit of white.)Spoiler
Bull Snapper #2: (I don't think I'm very happy with the way this one turned out.)Spoiler
Rutger Shaw and Taryn DiLaRovissi: (I couldn't do much with their eyes, they're so tiny, and even my smallest brush isn't cutting it. I tried to dress them in inconspicuous colors, but I don't think Taryn will ever be inconspicuous with that ginormous rack she's got.)Spoilerhttp://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery...ne%2C%20Wm.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery...ne%2C%20Wm.jpg
Also a link to my DakkaDakka WarmaHordes Gallery, if you want to see any that you may have missed.
I find it easiest to just wash the eyes on elves and the like. Use a brown or black and they will stand out from the rest without you having to smear white onto their entire face.
dsmiles: Trust me: that shade of lipstick does not work with her complexion. Good painting though. :D
Ugh. I hate this thing. I've had to file parts to fit, fill gaps, make flatter connection points with putty...I've got a ton of touch up work to do...it LEANS!! In it's natural configuration IT. FRIGGIN'. LEANS. It's shield arm doesn't go where it's supposed to because of it. Had I known all of this prior to putting it together, I would have fixed it all. :smallannoyed:
PP seems to have a wide variation when it comes to ease of assembly. Those Knights I worked on for you were petty terrible when it comes to the amount of prep work needed. I have a warjack I haven't painted yet that's also a nasty job with a lot of filing and gap filling.
Out of all the PP models I've put together, the only other ones I've had this much trouble assembling correctly were the Mage Hunter Strike Force. The connection points on their crossbows are so tiny and oddly shaped. I was afraid to pin them for fear of going right through, and they're shaped so funny, I couldn't clamp them.
There are gaps in a lot of the larger models, but I've found that they're fairly easy to fill, given a small applicator tip on the putty.
man, Dark Eldar Scourges are incredible, I just got my box and they are realy really nice.
Here's the barstard. :smallmad:
I haven't put the Llaelese Crown & Stars on it yet, but it's not far off.
Vanguard Light Warjack: