P3 also has inks, but I've never tried them.
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Anyone here in the uk ordered anything from Maelstrom Games recently? I pre-ordered some stuff from there back in january and it hasn't dispatched and they haven't replied to me trying to contact them.
Current project, Cato 'Fully Sick' Sicarius.
So, in a fit of boredom, I decided to replace my previous stand-ins for special weapons (cutting the barrel off a bolter and replacing it with a length of plastic pipe) was too boring so I greenstuffed some sort of weird daemonic gift looking thing in their places. While it doesn't really look like a specific weapon, it's distinctive enough to be clear that it's a special weapon. I need opinions on if these are ok though.
Here are the plaguemarines with their goo blunderpusses. I'll be painting the unpainted parts fleshy like the stomachs.
Here are the terminators with their blue-ish purple things.
They're not exactly WSIWYG but I think they look special and weapony enough.
About a month ago I was able to get three washes: Thraka Green, Devlan Mud, and Gryphonne Sepia, and combine them with the few paints I have.
Sorry it's taken me so long to do just these few guys, and that the pictures are so crappy, but it's 2:30 AM on a Saturday and as a teenager I've got limited skill, money, and time.
Oh quit you're whining.
I arranged them from left to right in the order I painted them (in the front pic).
Spoiler
Ork skin method:
Tamiya dark green, thick thraka green wash, drybrush formula p3 iosan green, drybrush citadel goblin green, not as thick thraka wash.
Gretchin method:
Tamiya dark green, thick thraka green wash, drybrush citadel bilious green (watered down a tad bit more than usual), heavy drybrush citadel goblin green, thraka wash.
And the colors are a bit off, the runtherder's pants are red, the thing on his back is a bronze swirl on a dull orange scrap of cloth.
If you have access to an art store of some sort, I've found that Liquitex's Payne's Gray makes the best wash I've ever used. A bit of Payne's Gray, some matte mixing medium (also Liquitex brand), and a bunch of water. Check out this article: http://www.kan.org/michael/mkp/paynes_grey.php
He's so sick you'd better call the apothocary :smallcool:
Will he be rolling in a rhino WRX?
Working on finishing off my Mass Effect minis at the moment, first modelling I've done in a loooong time. Finished sculpting Garrus nad Jacob's noggins, just need them to dry so I can attach them, and do Ash's hair and they'll be done.
Yet to find a suitable miniature for Kelly or Conrad Verner (he knows what it is to be truely extreme), and need to get the one I've got planned for Zaeed (and maybe casual Miranda). Guess I'll need to find a James Vega now, and maybe a Jack depending on her new look.
I did get lucky with Wrex and Grunt though.
This totally counts as a mini. And it was delicious.
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...00100585_n.jpg
But, the Ultra rhino is greeeen! At least tell me the Blood Angel one had jam filling :smallbiggrin:
Also, pictures:
Garrus:
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VRuVh1t_Rn...0/MeMini03.jpg
Kasumi:
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A_feWXEYIf...0/MeMini01.jpg
Kaiden:
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ocHfPbb6uQ...0/MeMini02.jpg
The Mako:
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D4PpwfyRR7...0/MeMini04.jpg
I've also got Ash, Wrex, Jacob and Miranda on the bench. Everybody's primed and a few have base coats on, so should have some more pics soon.
I don't suppose anyone would know where I can lay hands on a 28mm female soldier mini in full-body armour? Been trying to convert something up for my GK Henchmen and failing abysmally to find something that has both full-body armour and is in the right scale.
Hasslefree have a number, as do Antenocitis' Workshop.
Reaper have one in Chronoscope.
Copplestone have more modern troopers.
Statuesque have some great figs, but not really heavily armoured - they scale very well though.
Antenocitis has pretty much what I want, but they're a little too small in scale to fit in amongst other 40K minis without looking weird. It was a damn shame when the one I ordered finally arrived and I found that out. Stupid 'Heroic' scale minis, making so hard to find something form other companies.
I had not seen the Reaper one before. That works well.
I don't suppose anyone knows how Reaper minis match up to 40K ones, scale wise? I'm a bit worried about ordering it and then finding out that it doesn't fit in like the Antenocitis one.
I can check once I'm at home. I have a few of their minis that I can prop up beside a Space Marine for comparison.
However from the Reaper Chronoscope page:
Quote:
25mm Heroic Scale Non-Fantasy, Multi-Genre Miniatures
Tabbed figures on plastic slotted bases
Unpainted metal models that may require assembly
The best choice for modern and sci-fi roleplayers, miniatures painters, and wargamers
Here is a cellphone picture of them side-by-side. The Reaper one is based on a 40k base.
Hey guys, I'm gonna be painting some green and white space marines, should I go with gloss or non gloss colors?
Nice work, the stone especially :smallsmile:
I go non-gloss always - matt paints are usually easier to highlight, both in that they won't be catching odd reflections off work lights and gloss paints can sometimes be tricky to layer paint over. If you want to go shiny later you could put on a layer of gloss vanish.
Alright, thanks.
Also, I'm redoing my AOBR warboss and I'm thinking of chopping his power klaw off and replacing it with the dreadnought close combat weapon from the AOBR dreadnought. Any tips? Where do you think I should cut it?
Thanks.
I'm trying out a new wash I read about. Payne's Grey + mixing medium + water. I can't recommend it enough. I thought Devlan Mud and Badab Black were "talent in a jar," but this...this is simply amazing.
Does anyone know of a guide to adding a cloak to a model that is walking forward? I want to get sort of a Nercon Lord-like Cloak* on my Lychguard-turned-Crypteks, but the marching pose all but one of the models has makes this difficult. I'll post an image of my first try when I find my camera.
IMAGES
Spoilerhttp://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...s/CIMG1009.jpg
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...s/CIMG1008.jpg
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...s/CIMG1007.jpg
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...s/CIMG1006.jpg
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...s/CIMG1005.jpg
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...s/CIMG1004.jpg
*Somethign like this. Probably not as billowing, though
EDIT: Also, the arms on my Crypteks are driving me nuts. I'm not sure how to get the three pieces to line up for the 2-handed grip 4 out of the 5 have.
You could try putting some thin wire into the green stuff to hold it up, if you want it to stick away from the model.
Aspis:Spoiler
Proteus:
Question: If there are no stores in an area that sell plasticard or green stuff, what sorts of things would make good replacements?
Interesting, shall look into it.
Col Corbane has a good tutorial on doing cloaks that might help.
If you use a very small pice of greenstuff at the wrists to join them you'll get a little bit ov give in the joint so you can attach the shoulders.Quote:
EDIT: Also, the arms on my Crypteks are driving me nuts. I'm not sure how to get the three pieces to line up for the 2-handed grip 4 out of the 5 have.
The guy in your picture seems to have his hands on around the wrong way.
Online purchasing is the best bet. They're pretty specialised materials, so getting replacements could be tricky. Two part plumber's epoxy is the same stuff as greenstuff, but it is often made of a coarser mix.
Plasticard can be made from the plastic of a blister pack, but it doesn't glue well (which will be the main issue you're likely to encounter). I've heard of people cutting up real estate signage as it's plastic for building titans and the like.
[QUOTE=Zorg;12841225]Col Corbane has a good tutorial on doing cloaks that might help.
Thanks for the link. My main issue is going to be the positioning; Instead of a shoulder based cape, the one I'm working on will start below the pauldrons. Still, that should help. Also, it occurs to me that I really should have looked for more information on the finer points of using green stuff.
That was my original method. After posting it, I figured out how to better line the arms up with their positioning on the staff, and glued the two arms to the staff before I glued them to the model. 1 or 2 of these guys is still going to have their hands on the wrong way around, but I'm not sure what I can do about that.Quote:
If you use a very small pice of greenstuff at the wrists to join them you'll get a little bit ov give in the joint so you can attach the shoulders.
The guy in your picture seems to have his hands on around the wrong way.
I told the Fantasy thread I was gonna do it. And I did it. Slightly blurry photo, but I can assure you that it is not blurry in real life. Now I just need to build at least two more...