What's the problem with enamel spray? It's the only stuff I have at the moment I believe.
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What's the problem with enamel spray? It's the only stuff I have at the moment I believe.
Ah, okay. I'll try and find something else at my hobby shop tomorrow then.
Only thing I managed to find at the craft store today was an X-acto knife, and (For unrelated reasons) some erasers. Will be picking up paints, glue, and primer tomorrow.
And primer I can thin is preferable to primer I cannot? How exactly do I do that? Same with paints.
I tend to prefer spray primer since I'm lazy. Most cans of paint/primer will say if it's water soluble though.
I get the best results from GW brand primer. They are the most expensive option, and I have been trying out a few other brands, but they really do give me the best painting surface.
Have you had experience with the Army Painter ones? I had some trouble with it when I used it on my daemon princes. (Which I should touch up and post at some point.) The primer cracked one some of the flatter surfaces on the base and model. Didn't have any trouble on a human sized model though.
Nope- never tried anything from TAP except for their Quick Shade.
In other news: everyone will notice a little change in this month's Portal magazine from WAMP- I've been made review team leader/review editor:smallbiggrin:
Out of curiosity, could you guys tell me what you think of this 3D model I've been working on? After looking at different places selling thunder hammers, and seeing how expensive it was, I decided to just make my own and have them printed.Out of curiosity, could you guys tell me what you think of this 3D model I've been working on? After looking at different places selling thunder hammers, and seeing how expensive it was, I decided to just make my own and have them printed.
Warning: large image.
I still need to add some detail on the handle itself, but I think that the top piece is pretty much done. Unless someone thinks something would look good.
There will eventually be a hand attached to the end, so I can just glue it to the wrist of a terminator arm.
I've always been a fan of krylon primers, but recently I've been just using metallic spray to prime my marines and then coloring them with a heavy amount of drybrushing, washes, and watercolors before actually going over details.
Also, I just discovered liquid green stuff. XD
This is the best sculpting tool I've ever bought :smallbiggrin:
Reaper Miniatures is sponsoring the next painting contest over at WAMP. Go check it out!
Also, this month's edition of Portal magazine is available as well and it's always free.
I was thinking about doing some terrain building for myself, now that 40k includes rules for buying fortifications. Could someone who owns an Aegis defence line perhaps do a few measurements on it for me? I think I'll try building one that looks more like eldar architecture.
Aegis defense line consists of 4 2" long by 1.5" high segments, and 4 5" long by 1.5" high segments. As for their depth.. I'd go with maybe a quarter to half inch as reasonable, personally. As for the gun emplacement, I don't have the exact measurements for that, but if memory serves the base is about 1 square inch.
On the pictures, it doesn't seem to have the same height in all places. How high are the lower parts?
I'd say... maybe a quarter inch? Didn't measure that, on the grounds my design was probably going to have more holes in it anyway.
It's been a while since I painted anything for a contest and WAMP's Reaper contest is a good place to start, since I've got a lot of pieces from them.
First up is a conversion piece that I'm doing for a friend in my gaming group. I added the wings and the shield. I also had to cut off, reposition, and resculpt part of the left arm so the shield would be at the correct angle and have it closer to his body.
I'll be doing TMM for the armor and weapons. The sword and shield will both be TMM gold and he's still deciding about the wings- not sure if they're going to be iconic angel white or if we're going to give him some plumage like a bird of prey (I'm thinking maybe peregrine falcon)
http://www.stonetowerminiatures.com/...st/reaper1.jpg
This next one is only primed at this point. A friend gave him to me for my birthday a couple years ago. It's about time I paint him!
http://www.stonetowerminiatures.com/...st/reaper2.jpg
Here's a project that's almost done, but I've still got some work to do. I'm not completely happy with the fur and skin. I think it may just need some final highlights, but I'm not sure.
http://www.stonetowerminiatures.com/...st/reaper3.jpg
:smalleek:
You're good!
I'm especially excited to see what you'll do with the conversion piece, the model looks beautiful!
Thread, rise from the grave and do my bidding once more!
((Okay, not actually thread necro-ing, just felt like being silly.))
If I've glued some pieces together on a plastic model, and want to unglue them, is there any good way to do that?
What sort of glue did you use?
Citadel thin plastic glue. It doesn't matter for the moment as I haven't made any mistakes that definitely need rectifying, I'd just like to know for future reference.
Well, I have found that leaving a plastic glued model in a hot car will weaken the join, but that was on a piece that had been slightly overglued. Plastic cement basically melts the plastic it touches (this is why it will wreck detail on a model if overapplied or put in the wrong places), which then run together and dry; using it effectively bonds the pieces rather than being a simple adhesive. It will be weaker at the joint, and doesn't fully set for a couple of hours (though it's strong enough to hold together if you don't pry on it after a few minutes), so if you make a mistake you can usually get the pieces back apart without too much trouble. If you've let it set fully and come back to it another day, though, you're in for a rough time. (I had to pry apart my Valkyrie cockpit after catching a mistake the day after I'd made it, and it was a pain in the rear even though it was a large piece with only a couple of spot joins. I used a screwdriver.)
The good news is that on infantry, you can carefully cut off limbs and heads with a hobby knife or saw and it will glue back together just as well as it did the first time.
Here are pictures of my finished Tyranid Mawloc.:smallsmile:
My only camera is the camera on my phone, so pictures are less decent than I'd like.
I've found a conversion I'd really like to do, but I need a bit of help finding the parts without doing anything like buying a load of kits that I'm never going to need.
Basically, I need a pair of swords roughly the size of the force sword on the Dreadknight (I cannot see me ever playing Grey Knights, so I really don't want to shell out for the kits just for the swords or Chaos to get the Bloodthirster sized stuff.)
I don't have the knowledge necessary to go looking really, all the places I know do 28 mm stuff and smaller. So, does anyone know where a poor fat brummie can get a pair of big swords ?
Why not ebay the dreadknight swords? I see them for $7-8ish each, if that's in your budget.
UK here I'm afraid, the international shipping'll pillage me. UK Ebay has nothing, no matter how I alter my search terms. Of course, here's where someone goes straight to it, but there we go.
Well, Spikey Bits has some of the sword in stock, and supposedly ships bits free internationally.
http://www.spikeybits.com/servlet/th...dknight/Detail
Aha, looking good.
What kinds of glue work for finecast? I was wondering if the plastic or PVA glues (what does that stand for, anyway?) that come with the hobby starter set would work.
For finecast you'll need superglue.
I assume any old super glue will work, then?