The Warhammer Models Thread III: A Brush With Death

[Eldan]

Probably. Though there are some that are much better than others. For some, you need a tiny drop, for others you cover half the model in glue and it still won't stick.

[thereaper]

Apparently, the only super glue I have is the latter. >_<

[TheSummoner]

Maybe try Gorilla Super Glue. It's what I use and I've not had any trouble with it. (Make sure you get the super glue. They make other kinds and you do NOT want those other kinds on a model!)

[Forrestfire]

In my opinion, this is the best superglue around. It's a gel, so it doesn't get everywhere, and it solidifies like normal superglue and doesn't expand like Gorilla Glue does.

Also, the best way to use it is to apply it, hold the pieces together, then dunk the whole thing in water and pull it out again. After ~20 seconds it should be solid.

[TheSummoner]

it solidifies like normal superglue and doesn't expand like Gorilla Glue does.

Gorilla SUPER Glue. Not Gorilla Glue. The Super Glue doesn't expand, which is why I said to be sure to get that and not the regular kind.

[Forrestfire]

Totally misread that. For some reason (probably because it's 4am here), I thought you meant normal.

Sorry XD

[Gryffon]

In my opinion, this is the best superglue around. It's a gel, so it doesn't get everywhere, and it solidifies like normal superglue and doesn't expand like Gorilla Glue does.

Also, the best way to use it is to apply it, hold the pieces together, then dunk the whole thing in water and pull it out again. After ~20 seconds it should be solid.

I'll add in additional recommendation for this, as it's what I use for my models.

[CreganTur]

The Loctite Gel super glue is what I use as well.

[Mystic Muse]

Does anybody know the proper ratio of water to paint to create a proper wash for minis?

[Ishikar]

Does anybody know the proper ratio of water to paint to create a proper wash for minis?

Really it varies depending on the effect that you want from it. If you want a fuller shade of the color you'll use less water than if you just want to apply light shading to an area. I like to use a pre-bottled black wash from valejo for the most consistent results with black, if I'm using other colors I'll eyeball it or get another model to test on (I play 4-5 different model based games, I typically use my Khador army from Warmachine as a test bed).

Usually I'll do a 3:1 or 4:1 water to paint but sometimes I'll play with it to try other effects. I'm still learning and really have some issues with the "My skills suck and I want this to look good" hesitation on painting models but I've been having fun working on the varied textures and effects of Anima models over the very one sided appearance of the Tau I play in 40K. I still hate crisis suits for their model/vehicle hybrid status that precludes the flatter schemes most people use for the latter and makes a lot of detail popping techniques for infantry and monstrous creatures really ineffective because of their assembly line appearance.

[Forrestfire]

Could I get some feedback on this narthecium/reductor I made for my Terminator Apothecary?

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Sorry for the quality of the pics... all I have is my 3DS camera, and it's pretty bad.

[Squark]

Just keep him out of a unit with a Chainfist, and he should be fine. Also, make sure he stands out visually from the rest of the unit (Oh, and you are going to add some heraldry to that storm shield, right?)

[Forrestfire]

That is the plan, yes. I still have no idea what to put on the shields, though.

[Squark]

Hmm... My reccomendation would be to try and replace that circle in the center with an Aquila symbol of some sort, or some other notable imperial iconography.

[Mystic Muse]

I am hoping to magnetize a warhammer mini of mine (Tyranid Prime) and was wondering where one would go to get fairly small magnets.

[Borgh]

depends on where you are. Just type supermagnets or rare earth magnets and your location into google. Many sites sell them and quite a few local shops do too.

[Klose_the_Sith]

Also eBay. Every size available at all times no matter what at what are (presumably) low prices.

EDIT:

Has anyone had any experience with the Warlord Games Pike & Shot infantry? The sculpts aren't amazing, being a relatively old range and Warlord Games having improved a lot since then, but they're good enough for my silly pulp-type skirmish game.

The only trick is that firstly the 'posable' aspect of plastics has been completely removed (look at the sprues) and also the number of figures actually in the box is noticeably higher than reported, something they fight by just not having enough arms and weaponry. I was wondering if there was any advice on customising them or getting the most of these left over dudes.

[Penguinizer]

I've used the Warlord Games Germanic Tribesmen as marauders. The only main issue is that you don't really get options for weapons. They're actually pretty good looking though. They can be a bit plain but that's just fine for rank and file infantry.

Also, the reason the amount on the box is smaller is that it only counts the plastic models. Each box also has several (4-6) metallic models for stuff like command and whatnot.

[Cheesegear]

Normally I don't mind when my models come out bright (yellow is my jam, yo!) but this model was supposed to be dark. I copied the scheme straight out of the book and mine came out...Well, brighter than the book's.

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I like the end result, but it's not what I was going for, and it's going to look weird next to the rest when I get around to doing them.

[Klose_the_Sith]

I've used the Warlord Games Germanic Tribesmen as marauders. The only main issue is that you don't really get options for weapons. They're actually pretty good looking though. They can be a bit plain but that's just fine for rank and file infantry.

I thought the Pike and Shot range was the original Warlord Games plastic one. They've gotten better with every release (something you can also see in Wargames Factory among others). Either way, I'm happy enough to spend money and then spend countless hours assembling painting and gaming with them, so I'm not exactly a critic of theirs

Also, the reason the amount on the box is smaller is that it only counts the plastic models. Each box also has several (4-6) metallic models for stuff like command and whatnot.

No, this is far stranger than that. Just in plastic contents there is equipment for 39, but bodies for 42 - and yet on the cover it says 40. Personally I blame dark magicks.

[Mystic Muse]

Okay, I got some Tyranid warriors today that have been previously owned, and two of them are kinda dirty. One looks like it has old tape adhesive on it, the other looks like it has some sort of teal gum-like stuff on it. I'm wondering what the best way to clean the mini off is, since I don't want to damage the plastic.

[Forrestfire]

Non-acetone nail polish removal will take everything but the actual model itself apart.

It may also unglue parts of them, if they were put together with GW plastic glue.

[Mystic Muse]

Non-acetone nail polish removal will take everything but the actual model itself apart.

It may also unglue parts of them, if they were put together with GW plastic glue.

Huh. So, if it's non-acetone, I can use it on plastic minis with no problems? Other than getting rid of the glue.

Basically, I just want to make sure it won't melt my minis (I'll test it on a few scraps first.)

[Forrestfire]

Non-acetone nail polish remover in a tupperware or glass dish, will let you scrub off paint after ~30 minutes of soaking. With more than that, it's possible to pop apart bonds created by plastic glue, and it also melts superglue.

I would not suggest keeping minis in there for more than a few hours, though. I left a few fire warriors accidentally overnight, and when I went to scrub them they squished in my hand.

I'd suggest using a toothbrush for the scrubbing.

[CreganTur]

If you're in the US get a big bottle of Simple Green from your local big box hardware store. Soak your minis in that stuff, sometimes overnight, and everything will come off without harming the minis.

[Hootman]

If you're in the US get a big bottle of Simple Green from your local big box hardware store. Soak your minis in that stuff, sometimes overnight, and everything will come off without harming the minis.

I myself soaked some particularly horrendous Marines I got off Ebay for the better part of a month, with no ill effects. I probably should have tried a soak-scrub-repeat method instead of soooooooooooaaaaaaaaaaaaak-scrub-screw it, but thinking things all the way through isn't really my strength.

[Gryffon]

I use this SuperClean Engine Degreaser. I found it recommended somewhere online, so tried it. It'll remove paint and super glue(most of the time). And it's biodegradable, so you can just pour it down the sink. It is recommended to use gloves as well for it.

[Lady Serpentine]

(This isn't technically Warhammer stuff, but neither are half the things other people have been posting, and this is the only modelling thread I found, so...

That said, if someone has a better place to put this, I'm all ears.)

I picked up a Cryxian Stalker today, and being me, decided to put it together in a rather nonstandard fashion, namely, with the limbs turned upside down and attached in the opposite slots from what they 'should' be. (So the 'left arm' is the right leg, the 'right leg' is the left arm, and so on.) This went as well as could be expected, given that it was only the fourth model I've set up. That, said, I'm not entirely sure how I'll access some of the bits - the inner 'knee' on the back/right leg and the 'ankle' on the front/left one are rather close together to get into properly, and the arms are rather close to its body, with the right one also being right against its right 'hip' - to paint them... Any suggestions on working in extremely tight spaces, especially as most of the worst surfaces are the more highly detailed ones?

To make matters worse, I also decided to set it up bipedally, rather than with both legs on the ground and one arm touching it like they did in the above image (partly because that would be rather difficult with my configuration, and partly because it looks better this way), meaning that instead of a nice stable tripod, I have two contact points that don't really touch the base any more than the legs of the 'standard' build do. While after propping it between some stuff for a while, it stays up, I'm worried it's going to be rather easy to knock loose; would anyone happen to have ideas as to what I could do to make it more stable?

[Hawkfrost000]

I'm worried it's going to be rather easy to knock loose; would anyone happen to have ideas as to what I could do to make it more stable?

Weight the base with something (i use pennies) then drill through the weight and pin the legs to the base.

Worked for my running Deathjack (only one leg on the ground, that was a pain to balance.)

DM

[Tychris1]

Well, here's a couple of solutions:

1) Take some of the parts off: Not exactly the most appealing solution at first, I know, but often times if you know the model will be stable then merely taking the pieces off that would be hard to paint and painting them seperately is better. Go back to the model with the newly painted part, re attach it as best you can, and gloat at how you spent "Hours getting the intricate details in the tiniest places, like, you don't even know man." or how you can phase through objects.

2) Object Scenery/Evening it out: The leg for my Heirophant Bio Titan was curved and cut at the end as it entered from shipping, so to fix it I cut the other leg's tip to match it and then propped it against some scenery to five it stability. Perhaps your model can be bipedal, leaning over a brick wall with it's two front "arms" over the side of the wall and holding on as it looks about (Like a hunter) Or maybe integrate it into some foliage or such to blend it in (Which will help with the coloring as it will require less work considering the scenery will be doing some of the heavy lifting)

3) Wires/Drills: My least recommended option is to drill or cut into the model and insert wires into it to act as a kind of "Bone Structure" or support system. I recommend this for big models (Such as my Heirophant) but not for tiny models like that. If you think your gentle enough and if you own a drill powered by a hand turning the crank then I might recommend it, but even then exercise caution.

I also personally love the "Tripod" look (I just kind of like that vehicle design choice, feels more unique and agile) so i'm interested in seeing how a bipedal look can be pulled off.