The Warhammer Models Thread III: A Brush With Death

[CreganTur]

I am going to be teaching a miniature painting for beginners class on Saturday, August 6th.

This class is being hosted by The Grinning Gamer and will be from 2 to 4. The class will be instruction and a paint along, allowing all the participants to try out what they learn as I teach. All participants will need a fully prepped and primed miniature purchased from the Grinning Gamer- paints and brushes will be provided.

Location:
The Grinning Gamer
2416A Spring Garden St
Greensboro, NC 27403

Cost:
$20 plus the cost of a miniature (paid to The Grinning Gamer). They carry Reaper, P3, and GW.

Lesson:
I plan to cover a lot of basic techniques in this first class including:

• prepping & priming
• paint dillution
• drybrushing
• metallics
• washes
• simple skin tones
• highlights and shadows

I know it's a long shot, but it would be awesome to meet any forumites who could attend!

[Tarinaky]

For a cold colour scheme I'd use silver for the stormbolter and other metals.

[Borgh]

Ok update on the finecast+acetone experiment: acetoen noms details but not that fast. Edit after painting: it is still probably right, minimal damage. I'd do it again but with a shorter soaktime.

[Gruffard]

@CreganTur: You are more then a day trip away, else I really consider it. Love to hear how it turns out.

This is more of a conversion question then a painting question, but it seemed like the best place to ask.

Any ideas on how to add a ripped or worn cloak/robe to a model? I heard people use greenstuffs for it, but I thought I get suggestions for alternate ideas.

[Tome]

>Snip<

I'd show (gods know I could use the help), were I not in a different country. The UK, to be exact.

For a cold colour scheme I'd use silver for the stormbolter and other metals.

That's the second vote I've had for silver, so I guess I'll go with that.

This is more of a conversion question then a painting question, but it seemed like the best place to ask.

Any ideas on how to add a ripped or worn cloak/robe to a model? I heard people use greenstuffs for it, but I thought I get suggestions for alternate ideas.

This is totally the right place, being the modelling thread rather than the painting thread.

And unless the model already has a non-tattered cloak, I'd say greenstuff really is the best option.

[CreganTur]

Definately green stuff. The best thing to do is to roll out the green stuff over some talc- this will cut down on the stickiness and make it easier to work with. Roll it out to the desired thickness, then use a tool with a sharp end to tear and teast the ends of the cloak after you've cut out the basic cloak shape you want. Once that's done just sculpt it in place on the figure and you may need to use superglue to get it to stay.

[Tychris1]

*pow*

I would come of I wasn't going to the other side of the country, but there's games workshop buildings over there so it's not all bad (God knows I would need your class).

[Zorg]

Any ideas on how to add a ripped or worn cloak/robe to a model? I heard people use greenstuffs for it, but I thought I get suggestions for alternate ideas.

Greystuff?

Either type of stuff is the best to material work with - here are a some great tutorials:

Making a cloak

Making a frayed banner

GSing Robes onto a Marine

[Gruffard]

Oh Tutorials and directions. I might of figured out something okayish but this should help. Thanks for the replies guys.

[Tome]

Finished the alternative colour scheme for my Grey Knights (though I might still add some snow).

So which do you folks think would be better?

This:

Spoiler

Show

Or this:

Spoiler

Show

[Tychris1]

The first one gives it more of a magical/psyker fused armor look, as if the power has been with it for so long that it's contaminated the suit.

And the other one just has a crap tone of details that you can easily notice and bask in it's glory. Tough call, if your looking for a Grey Knight army with a focus on Psyker powers/has been in the warp frequently then go with number two.

[Penguinizer]

I need a quick bit of modelling advice. How would I make miniature speakers that look good? I'm going to be making some speaker Obliterators for a project I'm working on. It's a sort of music themed CSM army. While the infantry will be fairly normal, I'll be freehanding some band logo-ish stuff onto the tanks.

The obliterators elude me though. I'm planning on 3x4x3cm boxes with some tentacle feet. The guns will be attached to the side similarly to how they're on the GW obliterators. I'll probably put some trim on the edges of each side and some more freehand on the back.

The only issue is that I can't think of how to get the front to look good. I wasn't able to find any fine metal mesh to use so I decided to ask you guys for help.

[Tome]

The first one gives it more of a magical/psyker fused armor look, as if the power has been with it for so long that it's contaminated the suit.

And the other one just has a crap tone of details that you can easily notice and bask in it's glory. Tough call, if your looking for a Grey Knight army with a focus on Psyker powers/has been in the warp frequently then go with number two.

Would going back and picking out some more of the details on the first one help, do you think?

I need a quick bit of modelling advice. How would I make miniature speakers that look good? I'm going to be making some speaker Obliterators for a project I'm working on. It's a sort of music themed CSM army. While the infantry will be fairly normal, I'll be freehanding some band logo-ish stuff onto the tanks.

The obliterators elude me though. I'm planning on 3x4x3cm boxes with some tentacle feet. The guns will be attached to the side similarly to how they're on the GW obliterators. I'll probably put some trim on the edges of each side and some more freehand on the back.

The only issue is that I can't think of how to get the front to look good. I wasn't able to find any fine metal mesh to use so I decided to ask you guys for help.

You could try using thread and glue to build up the mesh you need, I guess.

[Tarinaky]

Would going back and picking out some more of the details on the first one help, do you think?

Yes. They're both well painted but the frosted figure looks less visually interesting as there's no contrast. If you pick out some of the details with the right colour you'll be able to make it pop in the same way as the silver/gold scheme.

[HalfTangible]

I just opened my first box of Assault marines.

...

Dear GOD there's a lot of pieces D=

[Talkkno]

Can someone identity this bit? Is this a Tau fusion gun or flamer?
http://cgi.ebay.com/40k-TAU-BATTLE-S...item2564b5492d

[Tome]

Can someone identity this bit? Is this a Tau fusion gun or flamer?
http://cgi.ebay.com/40k-TAU-BATTLE-S...item2564b5492d

Fusion Blaster, actually. Basically the Tau equivalent to a Meltagun.

[CreganTur]

I am proud to announce the grand opening of Stone Tower Miniatures!

The Squire, sculpted by Chris Clayton, is the first miniature available on our site. Sculpted in 54mm scale, he stands 45mm tall, is cast in white metal, and comes with a resin base.



We’ve got a lot on the horizon as well. Sculpting of the first figure in our steampunk line, the Gear Slave, has just been completed. Pictures and more information will be available within the coming weeks. The figures in this series will all be 28mm and cast in white metal.

We will also be releasing a few sets of gaming and display bases in the near future. Exciting things are on the horizon and more details will be posted on the site’s blog as they become available.

[Gwyn chan 'r Gwyll]

That looks like a really good sculpt! How does the detail come out in the cast? You should put up a pic of the metal cast, and of it painted, so people can really see what it looks like like that too.

[Ninjaman]

Would going back and picking out some more of the details on the first one help, do you think?



You could try using thread and glue to build up the mesh you need, I guess.

Finished the alternative colour scheme for my Grey Knights (though I might still add some snow).

So which do you folks think would be better?

This:

Spoiler

Show

Or this:

Spoiler

Show

Let me see: one is a really unique theme you designed yourself. The other is the basic one everybody is using. If you ask me there is no choise. Go with your own, that way they will be awesome becourse they are special and people haven´t seen them before. The others are just not as good as eavy metal.

I need a quick bit of modelling advice. How would I make miniature speakers that look good? I'm going to be making some speaker Obliterators for a project I'm working on. It's a sort of music themed CSM army. While the infantry will be fairly normal, I'll be freehanding some band logo-ish stuff onto the tanks.

The obliterators elude me though. I'm planning on 3x4x3cm boxes with some tentacle feet. The guns will be attached to the side similarly to how they're on the GW obliterators. I'll probably put some trim on the edges of each side and some more freehand on the back.

The only issue is that I can't think of how to get the front to look good. I wasn't able to find any fine metal mesh to use so I decided to ask you guys for help.

Buy some miniature speakers?

[Zorg]

I need a quick bit of modelling advice. How would I make miniature speakers that look good?

Get a plastic box and either get some etched brass mesh or fine fly screen to put on the front. You might even be able to find textured plasticard that would work - some companies make various brick, tile and such textures for railroad modelling.

Failing that you could put some dyed black gauze down, but fixing it in place could be tricky.

Finished the alternative colour scheme for my Grey Knights (though I might still add some snow).

So which do you folks think would be better?

I'd go with the darker armour but give him the second guy's blades and red & white details (on the shoulder and gun case [and colour the gun barrels]).

I am proud to announce the grand opening of Stone Tower Miniatures!

Good to see you're making a go of it I'm not really one for 54mm, but I'll definately be keepign my eyes open for what you've got coming up.
If you haven't already looked into it there are quite a few news blogs out there like TableTop Fix and Miniature Review that publish new releases.

-

More Mass Effect stuff - Liara, Shep Shepard and Tali:




Better pic of Tali (still WiP):




Not sure how to base them though.

[Jair Barik]

Nice minis!
Haven't played the games but they look awesome, fraid I can't really compare to the source material.

For basing either go for some sort of gravelly alien world (if you want an outside look) so basiclly typical basing, or go for a corregated metal look if you want them too look like their inside a space ship.

[Zorg]

Thanks

Here are links to reference pics of Tali, Liara and Shep.

For their bases I want something generic that'll go on a variety of boards - if they were plastic or resin I'd just do them clear. I think I'll probably go a dark grey with small tufts of grass so it could be urban with weeds or bleak outdoors.
Metallic of some sort would be awesome for the interior of the Normandy, but I'd probably need to re-base them for that.

[Jair Barik]

So you have the in different outfits to those pictured in the refrence shots correct? I notice some of the colour schemes are different. Very well done though especially on the gas mask.

For sci-fi minis I feel the metallic look is good if you are using them for RP/display purposes but for actual wargaming you are much better off going for painted sand+some kind of flock so they fit a wider range of boards.

[HalfTangible]

Should I assemble my assault marines before basecoating them?

[Hawkfrost000]

Should I assemble my assault marines before basecoating them?

I would assemble everything but the shoulder pads and jump pack, paint that then add the shoulder pads, then paint the jump pack sperately and then attach it.

DM

[Jair Barik]

Personally I find that even the jump packs and shoulder pads can be assembled prior to painting without causing too much trouble. Really it is only if the arms cross the torso that problems start (boltguns and heavy weapons for example).

[Hawkfrost000]

Personally I find that even the jump packs and shoulder pads can be assembled prior to painting without causing too much trouble. Really it is only if the arms cross the torso that problems start (boltguns and heavy weapons for example).

True enough, I do my jump packs a different color from my torso armor and getting the crevice in their backs right is a pain for me.

[Zorg]

So you have the in different outfits to those pictured in the refrence shots correct? I notice some of the colour schemes are different. Very well done though especially on the gas mask.

The differences are mostly due to my taking liberties for scale and the limitations on the models. I personally would have loved to do Tali's suit in the very gold heavy design, but it is beyone my sculpting ability to get it looking right.
Thanks on the mask, as I'm rather pleased with how it turned out myself (though it is a bit too wide) I had to chop the original mini's jaw off so she'd have a long neck amongst the modifications to her legs and hands. Made Liara's headsculpt and Shep's facial reconstruction seem rather simple by comparison!

For sci-fi minis I feel the metallic look is good if you are using them for RP/display purposes but for actual wargaming you are much better off going for painted sand+some kind of flock so they fit a wider range of boards.

Thoughts on a plain colour that could work?
Something a smidge darker than Astronomicon Grey, but not as dark as Adeptus Battlegrey, could work as it'd be dark enough to offset the lighter minis, but light enough for the darker ones. Also has the advantage of being a neutral shade so it won't really clash with anything too much as the eye will generally overlook it.

Should I assemble my assault marines before basecoating them?

I paint the backpack seperately up until the point where I've put insignia on the Marine's shoulder. From there I attach the pack to get uniformity in weathering and shading.

[CreganTur]

Over the weekend I received photos from Ian Mountain, the sculptor who just finished the Gear Slave. Here's a peek at the figure:



Full view photos will be available after I receive the piece and then I'll be sending it off for casting. He's 28mm scale, which makes him a perfect substitute as a wargaming mini. Casts will be in white metal. Full details will be available closer to release.