The Warhammer Models Thread III: A Brush With Death

[Ninja Chocobo]

I think link is broken.

This ought to work better. Edited.

[CreganTur]

@dsmiles
I really like your flame effects- and I also love that you painted them correctly- moving from yellow to red. You've been pumping out a lot of work recently.

[Ninjaman]

This ought to work better. Edited.

Stel just show some "image markers" but not actual images.

[Borgh]

todays blog post is rather pretty, its Dark Trondar actually

I like phil kelly more and more.

[dsmiles]

@dsmiles
I really like your flame effects- and I also love that you painted them correctly- moving from yellow to red. You've been pumping out a lot of work recently.

Thanks. That means a lot to me.
I did my homework on fire before I started painting, and I like the blending effect that comes from the glazing I did with the glow-in-the-dark orange paint on there. (Granted, it glows green, but the paint is orange, and that's all that matters. )

As far as pumping out a lot of minis, with my wife visiting family, I have nothing but time on my hands, and I've started using a "production line" technique for minis that have similar paint jobs.

[Renegade Paladin]

Quick question before I complain to Games Workshop's customer service. Is the Catachan infantry squad box supposed to contain two copies of the same sprue (that is, two sergeants, two flamers, two vox-casters, in all ways two identical sprues) or did someone pack the one I bought wrong? I'm guessing it's wrong because there's also two instruction sheets and no transfers, but I want to make sure.

[Borgh]

the batallion contains four of those sprues IIRC so i think its correct.

[Renegade Paladin]

the batallion contains four of those sprues IIRC so i think its correct.

Okay. That's a little awkward for making a legally outfitted squad, but whatever. I'm going to get a Marine Scout's heavy bolter from somewhere and do a cheap knock-off of Sergeant Harker (55 points for a Relentless heavy bolter with FNP, Infiltrate, Stealth, and Move Through Cover? Yes please!) anyway, so I was bound to have wasted sergeant bits no matter what I did. Thanks for the help.

[Jair Barik]

So what does anyone know about the finecast things then?

So far I know the following.
-Metal isn't entirely going away but lots of the metal models will be replaced with resin.
-The resin is different to that used by FW. It doesn't need washing, is non toxic and not very fragile (described as 'bouncy')
-The resin 'blisters' will be a sort of reddy orange colour and will feature a colour pic of the mini on the frnt of the box so that you can actually see how it is supposed to look fully assembled.
-Some of the boxes will contain multiple models where before they only contained one.

Also...
-New Homonculi model in the near future, looks pretty cool. New Tomb Kings 'prince' model in the near future, the model in question is a prince transforming into a scarab swarm of some sort.

[Gruffard]

It makes sense why then are switching mold materials. Oil has just climbed in prices in the last few years and oil based plastics (most of their line) will just be forced to get more expensive. So they made a new formula for their casts, gave it a fancy name.

I doubt the new casting material is going to cause any problems or be less quality. I hope they don't alienate peeps to much with their new price increases with no changes being visible in the foreseeable future.

[Zorg]

By the way, that "Fancy Pic" may just become my wallpaper.

EDIT: More minis:

You are a painting machine As said, nice flames.

todays blog post is rather pretty, its Dark Trondar actually

I like phil kelly more and more.

Stealing my ideas... grumble grumble...



Cregan, Sansa's looking good, the cloak is a lovely shade and texture. Her skin tone is great, but the lines on her face are very shadowed so she looks older than I think the character is meant to be. I mean it looks fine, but if the contest is to paint the characters rather than the minis (if you get what I mean) it might count against you.

[dsmiles]

You are a painting machine As said, nice flames.

Thanks, that means a lot, Zorg.
I guess that makes my flame-painting technique a valid scientific principle, since I have validation from two of the best mini-painters I know.

[Justyn]

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The metals on those look good; are those NMM techniques there, or just metallic paints?

[Closet_Skeleton]

Also...
-New Homonculi model in the near future, looks pretty cool. New Tomb Kings 'prince' model in the near future, the model in question is a prince transforming into a scarab swarm of some sort.

That would be Prince Apophas. He's supposed to just be a skull and a bunch of scarabs.

[Jair Barik]

Model looked interesting. The skull looked a bit crazy though, lacking the *ahem* 'sophistication' of some of the other Tomb Kings instead opting for an expression of manic evil.

[CreganTur]

@justyn
Thery're metallic paints, but the quick shade dulled them down a good bit. I'll be going over the highlights with other metallics as well. The gold is P3's Blighted gold, the darker steel is Vallejo Air Metallics Gun, and the lighter steel is VMA Steel.

[Ninjaman]

Also...
-New Homonculi model in the near future, looks pretty cool. New Tomb Kings 'prince' model in the near future, the model in question is a prince transforming into a scarab swarm of some sort.

As closet skeleton said that must be prince Apophas, in the army book they also show a necrotect and usabti with great bows, so they will properbly also be out soon. I also suspect a multipart plastic necrolith collossus/hierotitan to come out at some point.

[dsmiles]

@justyn
Thery're metallic paints, but the quick shade dulled them down a good bit. I'll be going over the highlights with other metallics as well. The gold is P3's Blighted gold, the darker steel is Vallejo Air Metallics Gun, and the lighter steel is VMA Steel.

I absolutely love Blighted Gold. It's quite possibly my favorite metallic paint. I haven had the opportunity to try any Vallejo paints, but I've heard that their metallics are even nicer than the P3 metallics.

[Gruffard]

@justyn
Thery're metallic paints, but the quick shade dulled them down a good bit. I'll be going over the highlights with other metallics as well. The gold is P3's Blighted gold, the darker steel is Vallejo Air Metallics Gun, and the lighter steel is VMA Steel.

Curious, do you use multiple brands of paints, because you like certain colors from each lines, or are you phasing yourself to certain brands? I like your works, and if in your opinion certain brands are better, I like to try them out.

As of now, I use Citadel Paints mostly, with P3 for metals and a select few colors unique to my army, and Citadel is mostly my main paint line cause it is always in stock at my FLGS and my first paint brand.

[dsmiles]

Curious, do you use multiple brands of paints, because you like certain colors from each lines, or are you phasing yourself to certain brands? I like your works, and if in your opinion certain brands are better, I like to try them out.

As of now, I use Citadel Paints mostly, with P3 for metals and a select few colors unique to my army, and Citadel is mostly my main paint line cause it is always in stock at my FLGS and my first paint brand.

Blah. After trying out P3, and hearing about Vallejo paints, I'm finding that Citadel is kind of bottom of the line when it comes to quality. I'm slowly moving away from Citadel, as they run out (except for certain colors).

IIRC, Cregan Tur is a big advocate of the Vallejo paints with select colors from other lines.

[Chumbaniya]

I finally have some pictures of my models! They're actually a little out of date now (the first killa kan is now nearly complete - I just need to add a ranged weapon arm). I may try to take a new one of the almost-complete kan tonight.

First off, the kans:

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I'm definitely going to do some more of the mud-covered stone effect on the base of the 3rd kan.

I've also now added an animal skull standard from the WHFB starter set I got 6 years ago to the 1st kan, and I think it looks pretty orky. Pictures shall appear at some point in the future.

Anyway, here are some other photos. First, the orc warboss from the old starter set (one of about 5 models I painted ~6 years ago):

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One of the basic orcs from my old box that I painted recently as practice:

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And a part-painted savage orc boar boy. I think these models are fantastic. The boar and the base are mostly done (except the boar's teeth and extreme highlights on the face and fur) but I've done nothing but the green base for the orc's skin.

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[Gruffard]

I like. The only suggestion would be on the savage orc boy, I would add "tattoos" on the model, since magic tattoos are why they have a ward save, but then you said your not finished.

What base material do you use?

[Ninjaman]

Why do you put grass on the base before painting it? also the practise orc looks really flat.

[dsmiles]

Why do you put grass on the base before painting it?

That actually looks really good for a "trampled battlefield" type of look, with the grass all crushed into the mud.

[Ninjaman]

That actually looks really good for a "trampled battlefield" type of look, with the grass all crushed into the mud.

But couldn´t you still achieve that if adding it after painting?

[Chumbaniya]

I like. The only suggestion would be on the savage orc boy, I would add "tattoos" on the model, since magic tattoos are why they have a ward save, but then you said your not finished.

What base material do you use?

I agree, I'd like to do the tattoos. I think for now I'd like to do the boars (they're pretty easy, just base, wash, drybrush and then highlight) and do the orcs with tattoos once I'm more confident with freehand designs.

The bases are just the sand and (on the boar) grass from the basic hobby set. The stones are painted. In future I'll have to get hold of some more bits and try something different.

Why do you put grass on the base before painting it? also the practise orc looks really flat.

For the grass on the boar boy, I did it after the boar was painted. I've done the base of the killa kan before painting it so I don't end up sticking sand over the already-painted feet (although I did do the base metal of the kan before the sand). I agree the practice orc looks flat - definitely needs highlights and I was far too cautious with the amount of wash. Also it's a less detailed model so washing it isn't as effective because there's less definition in the muscles.

Anyhow, I have pics of the almost finished first kan, including the skull pole:

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I like the effect on the skull - I'll probably redo the same thing on the horns on the front of the body.

[dsmiles]

But couldn´t you still achieve that if adding it after painting?

Maybe, but I'd have to see it done to compare.

[Ninjaman]

For the grass on the boar boy, I did it after the boar was painted. I've done the base of the killa kan before painting it so I don't end up sticking sand over the already-painted feet (although I did do the base metal of the kan before the sand).

... i just stick it on before i spray them.

[dsmiles]

More minis, again, all Legion. I've got way too much time on my hands.
Harriers:

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Stingers:

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Spawning Vessel:

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[Gruffard]

Is there are reason you made the shredder's fireball thing the same color as he is? Seems like it be harder to tell it apart from a distance.

Other then that, I like.