The Warhammer Models Thread III: A Brush With Death

[Eldan]

Hm. New idea on the Bone Giant:

Lower body of a Trygon. Does anyone have an idea how the sizes would compare? The general idea, then, would be to cover up most of the holes and most tyranid-ish parts with Green Stuff or fitting bits.

[Ninjaman]

Originally Posted by Eldan

Hm. New idea on the Bone Giant:

Lower body of a Trygon. Does anyone have an idea how the sizes would compare? The general idea, then, would be to cover up most of the holes and most tyranid-ish parts with Green Stuff or fitting bits.

too big. I play tyranids.

[Winterwind]

Originally Posted by Science Officer

This weekend I finished my IoB Rat Ogres.
These are the first models I've done with care, all the clan rats I just base-coated and washed.

I think the turned out very well.
My photography is terrible as usual, but I'd rather not post pictures than learn to do it better. *shrug*

First One Front

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First One Back

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Second One Front

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Second One Back

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Looking good! And appropriately terrifying, too.

Originally Posted by Eldan

Hm. New idea on the Bone Giant:

Lower body of a Trygon. Does anyone have an idea how the sizes would compare? The general idea, then, would be to cover up most of the holes and most tyranid-ish parts with Green Stuff or fitting bits.

Having once put a Trygon together (I don't play Tyranids, but made one for a friend at one point)... I think it might actually fit quite well. The Sphinx's torse might be a tad wider than what usually goes on a Trygon's body, but not to the point where it wouldn't work anymore, I think.

[Gruffard]

Originally Posted by Science Officer

This weekend I finished my IoB Rat Ogres.
These are the first models I've done with care, all the clan rats I just base-coated and washed.

I think the turned out very well.
My photography is terrible as usual, but I'd rather not post pictures than learn to do it better. *shrug*

First One Front

Spoiler

First One Back

Spoiler

Second One Front

Spoiler

Second One Back

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You might want to try to get better lighting on the second rat ogre, but from what I could see, I like. Might want to dry brush/highlight the stitches. Found that it makes the unit pop some more.

Overall, quite impressive for a first serious attempt.

[Dark Faun]

Good painting indeed. My only advice would be to paint their eyes. Of course, this comes from someone who hasn't yet managed to paint the eyes the same box' high elves.

[Eldan]

Putting some dark or reddish wash or ink in the eyes should be enough. It's what I do. Mostly, because I can't do a spot of paint small enough not to paint half the face.

[Dark Faun]

I do the same thing, but it doesn't give the same feeling as actually painting their eyes (I wanted to paint them entirely black). It's not because I can't do a small enough spot though; my hands shake terribly. I can paint their teeth just fine.

[Winterwind]

While we're on the subject of painting really, really fine things, does anybody have advice on how to paint very thin lines? I'd like to make some inscriptions on the Grey Knights I'm currently working on, and even the finest brush I have leaves lines thicker than what I'd like; I tried taking a needle and sticking its tip in paint, but that just makes a big fat drop hang at the needle's tip, leaving huge blotches, and if I try to brush that drop off the needle doesn't leave any trace on the model at all anymore, so... yeah. What can a person that does have the luck of having steady hands and wants to paint something really, really fine and small do to accomplish that?

[Dark Faun]

People around me (who admittedly don't paint models themselves) always suggested toothpicks.

[Ninjaman]

Originally Posted by Dark Faun

People around me (who admittedly don't paint models themselves) always suggested toothpicks.

I just paint them, even with pupils on wardancers it ain´t that hard.

[Tarinaky]

Originally Posted by Winterwind

I tried taking a needle and sticking its tip in paint, but that just makes a big fat drop hang at the needle's tip, leaving huge blotches, and if I try to brush that drop off the needle doesn't leave any trace on the model at all anymore, so...

You need to play around with the consistency of the paint to reduce the viscosity for that to work. Unfortunately I have no idea what mix of Pigment/Solvent/Water would work well.

[Gruffard]

If it is a raised detail, painting kindof like dry brushing can work. If you need to do it free hand toothpicks can work, but I find ultra fine sharpies can work better, and its easy work for when you need to do something like a unit or block of droops. Just note the color might not be what shows on paper if the backdrop isn't light/white.

Also an ink well pen can work too, dipped in paint (might need to water it down some) NOTE: if you don't clean the tip you will ruin it. This allows it to hold more paint then a toothpick. This is the preferred method for unique things, looks better then the sharpy, but takes more time.

[Science Officer]

Ooh yeah, eyes. Keep forgetting about those things.
I also have forty blind clanrats... (sounds like a nursery rhyme...)

I really wanted to do the stitches, but they are sooo tiny. I might try toothpicks or sharpies or something.
Thanks for the ideas and kind words.

[Eldan]

Toothpicks work, but you need to change them often. I use them for most details, they don't flop around like small brushes do when my hands shake.

[dsmiles]

Originally Posted by Winterwind

While we're on the subject of painting really, really fine things, does anybody have advice on how to paint very thin lines? I'd like to make some inscriptions on the Grey Knights I'm currently working on, and even the finest brush I have leaves lines thicker than what I'd like; I tried taking a needle and sticking its tip in paint, but that just makes a big fat drop hang at the needle's tip, leaving huge blotches, and if I try to brush that drop off the needle doesn't leave any trace on the model at all anymore, so... yeah. What can a person that does have the luck of having steady hands and wants to paint something really, really fine and small do to accomplish that?

Depends on the size of the model. You can usually get away with some Scotch brand blue masking tape. That's what I use.

[Inquisitor D]

You guys seem to know a good bit about whats out there as far as model rangers, and I figured I would bring my question here first.

I run an all female guard regiment and try to represent the characters I counts-as somewhat like the original. Do you guys know any model I could conceivably count as Creed? Preferably someone with a greatcoat/cigar/dual pistols. Even just one or two of those would probably make it look close enough, provided she looks somewhat guard officer-y.

[Zorg]

Khurasan's "Genocidal Overlord" could work well, or at least for a commisar:




Also Pulp Miniatures "She-Wolves" are a possibility:






-


For painting thin lines or other finescale work I find having a damp brush is often key, as well as the paint slightly thinned. I also find that using a large size brush with a good tip is sometimes better than using a smaller brush. For instance I paint eyes on my dudes and dudettes using a GW detail brush, rather than the fine detail, and have used a 000 size in the past for such things.

[Cheesegear]

Hello,

Specifically, this post is aimed at Australians.
What kind of dremmel do you use? Also, how much did it cost? Tools, like a few other things, are one of those 'get what you pay for' kind of objects.

I've got my Gabriel Seth and I need to take out his head. Because Marines wear helmets (I know, if he wears a helmet, he wont be as recognizable as Captain Garen, leader of the Dauntless Vanguard).

Random crap.

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In other news, I'm a git. I'm starting my Blood Dragons/Knights of Blood Marines, and, guess what, due to heraldric tradition, I can leave symbols on special character's kneepads (Such as Seth's Spin-To-Win emblem). Shoulder Pads, and other large, easily-removable symbols will be filed off to be replaced with Dragons.

I'm going to be using Kor'Sarro, chucking a massive axe on him (the one from the Sanguinary Guard, otherwise known as the Black Cleaver), and, he'll be used as Kor'Sarro or Sicarius. Kor'Sarro is the base-model. His name shall be Olaf, and his symbol shall be the Lightning Bolt. He shall jungle and Outflank*.
Unfortunately, the pose is all wrong for me to magnetise a Jump Pack to him and use him as Astorath as well.

In other, other news. I have a camera now. Pics up when I have them.

*No, I'm fully serious. Prince Jarvan, Examplar as The Sanguinor, Exemplar. Garen, Captain of the Vanguard (first company). These LoL references really do write themselves.

[Winterwind]

Alright, thanks for the advice, everyone. I'll give all of your suggestions a try.

[CreganTur]

When I did the inscriptions on my Grey Knights I mixed up some thinned black with some flow improver added in- this make the paint thin enough to easily paint with a brush. I used one of my sable brushes that had a very well defined tip and used that.

[Zorg]

Originally Posted by Cheesegear

Specifically, this post is aimed at Australians.
What kind of dremmel do you use? Also, how much did it cost? Tools, like a few other things, are one of those 'get what you pay for' kind of objects.

I've got a 'Dremel Stylus' - it's a cordless model so it doesn't attach to things like the router frame or drill press module, but it still accepts all the bits. I went cordless as it's a lot simpler to use with minis and I don't have to keep unplugging and re-plugging everywhere.

Most Dremels will run you around $100 at Bunnings (mine was $99), but for 40k purposes you'll need to get some other bits and bobs, so it'll be closer to a $200 outlay at first.

First up is you'll need a pack of cut-off wheels, as the basic kit the tool comes with doesn't have any; a small collet (the part that grips the bit), as you only get large ones so you won't grip the tiny drill bits you'll likely be using for pinning and possibly even the chuck attachment.

If you don't have it already get some safety gear, eye protection and respirator - I also wear gloves. The plastic and metal in kits and Forge World's resin are non-toxic, but it's still not good to be breating in regardless.


More Phantom:



Just need to ink the armour recesses and finish her base (plus the inevitable touchups)

[dsmiles]

Originally Posted by Zorg

More Phantom:

That's AWESOME!!!!

[Cheesegear]

Originally Posted by Zorg

I've got a 'Dremel Stylus' - it's a cordless model so it doesn't attach to things like the router frame or drill press module, but it still accepts all the bits. I went cordless as it's a lot simpler to use with minis and I don't have to keep unplugging and re-plugging everywhere.

Most Dremels will run you around $100 at Bunnings (mine was $99), but for 40k purposes you'll need to get some other bits and bobs, so it'll be closer to a $200 outlay at first.

First up is you'll need a pack of cut-off wheels, as the basic kit the tool comes with doesn't have any; a small collet (the part that grips the bit), as you only get large ones so you won't grip the tiny drill bits you'll likely be using for pinning and possibly even the chuck attachment.

If you don't have it already get some safety gear, eye protection and respirator - I also wear gloves. The plastic and metal in kits and Forge World's resin are non-toxic, but it's still not good to be breating in regardless.

<3 Bunnings. It's almost like a trip to GW given the amount of cool stuff I can buy.

Thanks for the help Zorg.

[dsmiles]

w00t! More minis done. All Legion.
Scather and Crew:

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Spawning Vessel Acolyths:

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Hex Hunters:

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Lylyth:

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Seraph:

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Carnivean:

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I was really limited on posing options, here. I could only get the arms to stay on like this.

Next up: Bayal, Angelius, and the rest of this Hex Hunter unit.

EDIT: Also, I like P3's Radiant Platinum WAY better than Citadel's Mithril silver.

[Justyn]

So, I've gotten that Terminator I posted earlier done, I'll post the few pics I took of it after I flocked and lighted the base, but I'll also provide a link to the gallery that has a 360 view of him, but just not the base.

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[dsmiles]

Zorg, I think you posted it before, with all those charts and links for Citadel paints, but...

Quick question (directed at the thread in general):

What base color would be best for making Asurmen Blue? Necron Abyss or Regal Blue?

[Justyn]

Originally Posted by dsmiles

Zorg, I think you posted it before, with all those charts and links for Citadel paints, but...

Quick question (directed at the thread in general):

What base color would be best for making Asurmen Blue? Necron Abyss or Regal Blue?

Making Asurman Blue? Well, really, the best way to get Asurman Blue is to just buy some, but Regal Blue watered down to a wash consistency (that would be about 3:1 water to paint, by my approximation) would be the best, because foundation paints aren't that great for washing; they're too opaque. Plus, Necron Abyss has a bit of an indigo tint to it, whereas Asurman Blue and Regal Blue are both... well... blue.

[dsmiles]

Originally Posted by Justyn

Making Asurman Blue? Well, really, the best way to get Asurman Blue is to just buy some, but Regal Blue watered down to a wash consistency (that would be about 3:1 water to paint, by my approximation) would be the best, because foundation paints aren't that great for washing; they're too opaque. Plus, Necron Abyss has a bit of an indigo tint to it, whereas Asurman Blue and Regal Blue are both... well... blue.

Yeah, I realize that the best solution would be to go buy some, but I'm in a pinch, and by the time I get to the gaming store, it'll be closed. So, Regal Blue, eh? I'll give it a shot.

[Ninjaman]

Originally Posted by dsmiles

w00t! More minis done. All Legion.
Scather and Crew:

Spoiler

Spoiler

Spawning Vessel Acolyths:

Spoiler

Hex Hunters:

Spoiler

Lylyth:

Spoiler

Seraph:

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Carnivean:

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I was really limited on posing options, here. I could only get the arms to stay on like this.

Next up: Bayal, Angelius, and the rest of this Hex Hunter unit.

EDIT: Also, I like P3's Radiant Platinum WAY better than Citadel's Mithril silver.

some of your stuff looks quite flat, especially the dark blue coats, maby try to use layering, or extreme highlights.

[Gruffard]

@dsmiles: What are you using to get the snow layered that high? My normal baking soda/salt mixture doesn't layer that high and still look fluffy.