The Warhammer Models Thread III: A Brush With Death

[dsmiles]

Originally Posted by CreganTur

~Snip~

That tree looks great, CT. I can't wait to see the finished product.

[Closet_Skeleton]

Having to remix white and two other colours every four models is annoying.

[Zorg]

Originally Posted by Ninja Chocobo

Her skin's got an unfortunate-looking...textured quality to it.

Hrm, so it does... Odd as she certainly doesn't have it in person It's probably a result of the way I paint, using a more drybrush-y method than blending.

[dsmiles]

Anybody ever use Army Painter Battlefields scenics?

I bought a package of swamp grass yesterday, and put some on Snapjaw's base. This stuff is pretty good. Unfortunately, they only had swamp grass and poison ivy.

[Closet_Skeleton]

I was contemplating getting some swamp grass but it looked like you didn't get much in the packet for your money.

[dsmiles]

Originally Posted by Closet_Skeleton

I was contemplating getting some swamp grass but it looked like you didn't get much in the packet for your money.

Considering the fact that you really only need 2 or 3 tufts on a 50mm base to make it look good, $5.99 is a better deal than most of the GW/Citadel scenics. (I mean, really? $8.25 for a 4 oz. tub of sand? I can get it at the local craft store at $3.99 for 4 lbs.)

[CreganTur]

I've got 1 set of their tufts- they're really nice and easier to use than static grass. I use them on display projects or anything I want to look really nice- otherwise I still with static grass cause it's cheaper.

[dsmiles]

Any new pics of that mini you're working on, CT?

[FlyingScanian]

Originally Posted by dsmiles

(I mean, really? $8.25 for a 4 oz. tub of sand? I can get it at the local craft store at $3.99 for 4 lbs.)

People actually PAY for sand? I can understand paying for grass (well, didn't that sound wrong...), but for sand? At least I have no trouble getting that for free out in the nature...

[dsmiles]

Originally Posted by FlyingScanian

People actually PAY for sand? I can understand paying for grass (well, didn't that sound wrong...), but for sand? At least I have no trouble getting that for free out in the nature...

Yeah, I pay for it. Craft sand is pre-cleaned and sifted to provide a (relatively) consistent grit size. I'd rather not have to do that myself. It's just paying for convenience (much like paying $3.50 for small pots of pre-mixed acrylic paints rather than buying large tubes of unmixed paints for the same price and mixing it yourself).

[Borgh]

Problem with qa lot of natural sand is that its just not always usable. I for example live on sand but that is fine sea sand. the closesets I would be able to get reasonable sand would be at least an hours drive away. Which is more then the few bucks I shell out for the tub of craft-sand.

[Closet_Skeleton]

Originally Posted by dsmiles

Considering the fact that you really only need 2 or 3 tufts on a 50mm base to make it look good, $5.99 is a better deal than most of the GW/Citadel scenics. (I mean, really? $8.25 for a 4 oz. tub of sand? I can get it at the local craft store at $3.99 for 4 lbs.)

I have an army of 80 odd space marines with swampy bases. I can do them all with a pot of static grass. Those tufts? not so much.

[FlyingScanian]

Originally Posted by dsmiles

Yeah, I pay for it. Craft sand is pre-cleaned and sifted to provide a (relatively) consistent grit size. I'd rather not have to do that myself. It's just paying for convenience (much like paying $3.50 for small pots of pre-mixed acrylic paints rather than buying large tubes of unmixed paints for the same price and mixing it yourself).

I guess I'm just lucky that I have relatively easy access to good sand... sometimes you just don't realise how good you have it, and thus, am amazed that others don't have the same advantages (but then again, probably have advantages you miss, such as, say, being good at painting this plastic crack...)

Sorry if I in any way came off as snobbish or annoying

[dsmiles]

Oh...this is unfortunate...this stupid epoxy says it takes up to 72 hours to cure...maybe I should have read that before I poured it. (I'm doing water on the swampy bases, in case I was unclear.)

[CreganTur]

@Dsmiles
Sansa's almost done- I've just got some detail work to finish along with her hair. The base is completed, so I'll have some more pics up soon. I'll also have pics of the IG HQ squad commission as they're almost done- all I've got left on them are the bases.

Any sort of water effect takes a long time to dry, and some of them shrink when they dry which means you may have to do a second pouring. I really like the clear epoxy resin I used on that pirate dio because it was dry in 24 hours.

[dsmiles]

Originally Posted by CreganTur

@Dsmiles
Sansa's almost done- I've just got some detail work to finish along with her hair. The base is completed, so I'll have some more pics up soon.

Can't wait. I love your diorama minis.

Originally Posted by CreganTur

Any sort of water effect takes a long time to dry, and some of them shrink when they dry which means you may have to do a second pouring. I really like the clear epoxy resin I used on that pirate dio because it was dry in 24 hours.

Yeah, the one I had that came in a complete water effects diorama kit cured in about 16-18 hours, but the package said 24. This one says 72, so I'm hoping for about 24-30.

[Eldan]

Natural sand is tricky mostly because it often acts as a sponge for all manner of unsavoury things, like fecal bacteria and toxic waste. You should probably cook it before using it.

[dsmiles]

Originally Posted by Eldan

Natural sand is tricky mostly because it often acts as a sponge for all manner of unsavoury things, like fecal bacteria and toxic waste. You should probably cook it before using it.

Definitely. I'd boil it for at least 10 minutes. I may even bleach it afterwards, just to make sure.

EDIT: MOAR! (I've painted a lot more, including an entire unit of Hex Hunters, another Seraph, another Nephilim Bolt Thrower, and another Buccaneer, but they look the same as the first of each, so I really don't feel the need to post them.)

Forsaken:

Spoiler

Snapjaw:

Spoiler

Here's a close-up of Snapjaw's swampy base:



I think this may well be the best mini I've ever done.

[Gruffard]

Love the Gator (snap jaw). Base and all. By far I think your best yet (which is impressive since I think Nightmare was great too). I love to see that on the field.

On the Forsaken, she looks... off. Not bad, but just flat, nothing is there to offset all the blue. (I know there is the white of the base, and the claws). I think she is good. I honestly don't know what to suggest there.

[dsmiles]

Originally Posted by Gruffard

Love the Gator (snap jaw). Base and all. By far I think your best yet (which is impressive since I think Nightmare was great too). I love to see that on the field.

Thanks.

Originally Posted by Gruffard

On the Forsaken, she looks... off. Not bad, but just flat, nothing is there to offset all the blue. (I know there is the white of the base, and the claws). I think she is good. I honestly don't know what to suggest there.

The problem is, the chitin is basically Shadow Grey, which comes out kind of blue in the photos. It's more grey IRL, but on such a small mini, it does look kind of flat...

EDIT:More...I finished my second Ayiana and Holt, for my Privateer army.

Spoiler

[Justyn]

So, after two weeks waiting, my Space Marine Command Squad finally arrived at my FLGS... yesterday.

So, I havn't had too much time to work on it, but I have done some work on the Apothecary model. White is sooooo hard to get to look nice, and this is the first time I've ever done any white on anything larger than a helmet.

Here are a few pictures of my current WIP:

Spoiler

[CreganTur]

I'd suggest doing at least a drybrush of a lighter color to highlight Snapjaw's scales.

[Incomp]

Originally Posted by Justyn

So, after two weeks waiting, my Space Marine Command Squad finally arrived at my FLGS... yesterday.

So, I havn't had too much time to work on it, but I have done some work on the Apothecary model. White is sooooo hard to get to look nice, and this is the first time I've ever done any white on anything larger than a helmet.

Here are a few pictures of my current WIP:

Spoiler

~pics~

Okay. If you're having trouble with white, red, or yellow, simply prime the model white, not black. Bam. Problem solved.

Second, for the gold eagle, I would recommend starting with a brighter gold color, then washing the eagle with devlan mud or ogryn flesh (depending on the tone you want) and, if you pleased, highlighting the eagle again with the original color. That should bring out depth on it, which might look nice.

[dsmiles]

Originally Posted by CreganTur

I'd suggest doing at least a drybrush of a lighter color to highlight Snapjaw's scales.

Okay, so a lighter drybrush. I drybrushed in the original color, and on the darker green scales I did the lighter one, but it was a really dry brush. (Also, I just added some blood spatter around the snout.) And wouldja lookit that...the epoxy is almost done curing. I figure it'll be done by afternoon.

In other news, I'm soooooo tempted to paint up this Totem Hunter like Abe Sapien.

Spoiler

See? Don't you think he looks like Abe Sapien?

[Tarinaky]

Originally Posted by dsmiles

I'm soooooo tempted to paint up this Totem Hunter like Abe Sapien.

Spoiler

See? Don't you think he looks like Abe Sapien?

That's a cool mini. What is it/who sells it?

[Jair Barik]

Pretty certain its one of the hordes mercs from Privateer press.

[dsmiles]

Originally Posted by Jair Barik

Pretty certain its one of the hordes mercs from Privateer press.

Yeah, it's a Hordes Minion from Privateer Press. It's a Totem Hunter. (And it looks like Abe Sapien! )

[Ninjaman]

Originally Posted by dsmiles

Definitely. I'd boil it for at least 10 minutes. I may even bleach it afterwards, just to make sure.

EDIT: MOAR! (I've painted a lot more, including an entire unit of Hex Hunters, another Seraph, another Nephilim Bolt Thrower, and another Buccaneer, but they look the same as the first of each, so I really don't feel the need to post them.)

Forsaken:

Spoiler

Snapjaw:

Spoiler

Here's a close-up of Snapjaw's swampy base:



I think this may well be the best mini I've ever done.

The snapjaw is awesome. Not fond of the forsaken however.

[Justyn]

Originally Posted by Incomp

Okay. If you're having trouble with white, red, or yellow, simply prime the model white, not black. Bam. Problem solved.

Second, for the gold eagle, I would recommend starting with a brighter gold color, then washing the eagle with devlan mud or ogryn flesh (depending on the tone you want) and, if you pleased, highlighting the eagle again with the original color. That should bring out depth on it, which might look nice.

While the advice is definitely appreciated, it is somewhat not useful in my situation; the model in question was already primed in white, it's just that I brought it down to black via a Badab Black wash and then brought up through layer after layer of ascending grays for the purpose of shading and so that the model doesn't look bleached by having areas that are hit by little to no light be stark white.

Also, the chest eagle was started with Shining Gold, washed with Gryphonne Sepia, and then drybrushed and highlighted with Burnished Gold; the reason it looks so flat is because my camera flash beached it out... I am just not that good of a photographer.

[Zorg]

EDIT:More...I finished my second Ayiana and Holt, for my Privateer army.

Spoiler

Shame Ayiana is out of focus there, I like her colours. What did you use for the red?

Originally Posted by Justyn

Also, the chest eagle was started with Shining Gold, washed with Gryphonne Sepia, and then drybrushed and highlighted with Burnished Gold; the reason it looks so flat is because my camera flash beached it out... I am just not that good of a photographer.

I use a deeper wash for gold. Starting with a Shining Gold base I wash in black, drybrush Burnished gold and then drybrush Mithril Silver. I then wash in Ogryn Flesh.
The silver drybrush really accentuates the edges, but the wash tinges it a slightly reddish colour so it blends better.