The Warhammer Models Thread III: A Brush With Death

[Zorg]

Started a new army:

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It's the Khornepocalypse!

[Forrestfire]

That defiler is magnificent.

[Destro_Yersul]

Hello, everyone, it has been a while. I haven't painted anything in a long time, but I recently picked up the brushes again to have a shot at making a present for my girlfriend, who has High Elves as her chosen army.

Thusly:

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I wanted to do a mounted elf, on a lion. Got the lion from an elf-playing friend who used horses to pull his chariots. THe rest is from the plastic high elf box. This was painted and assembled in stages. Seen here is stage 2, in which I have glued the lion to the base with plastic cement, superglue, paperclip and green stuff to make sure it stays put. The saddle was made with green stuff.


After that, I painted the elf's legs, and stuck those to the saddle. Superglue and a bit of paperclip - plastic cement and green stuff don't get along.


This is actually two stages - the body and the sheathed sword were done seperately. I had to carefully scrap a bit of paint off to get the sword to apply, but it would have been way harder to paint if I'd glued it on beforehand.



With the shield attached. I was tempted to try a bit of freehand here, but I ran out of time. My girlfriend still loved it, though.

And that's Destro's most recent foray into painting. Huzzah!

[Yaktan]

So, does anyone know a good method for dissolving superglue?

[Forrestfire]

Depends on what it's on.

If it's a metal model, dunking it in acetone for a bit will get rid of it and everything else attached to it.

[Yaktan]

Its holding a magnet to a plastic piece. Is acetone bad for model plastic?

[Forrestfire]

Yes. It will destroy it (not immediately, but you'll soften the plastic in seconds and long term melt it).

According to google, Castrol Super Clean automotive degreaser apparently makes superglue brittle.

Non-acetone nail polish remover will make it soft and remove paint without harming the model as long as it's not in there for days (I forgot about a fire warrior in the tupperware once and found him after he apparently converted to Nurgle)

[Cheesegear]

Its holding a magnet to a plastic piece. Is acetone bad for model plastic?

To remove stuff from plastic I've been using Simple Green, which is an alcohol-based household degreaser and cleanser available from most hardware stores and a few supermarkets.

Other times I've had moderate success with Dettol, available from most Pharmacies, active ingredients being Chloroxylenol, and Isopropanol, the latter being what a lot of painters use to clean their brushes - think about it.

Essentially, use alcohol-based cleaners. Make sure to test first.

Other than that, superglue is really very easily removed using a knife. Unless you mean 'Plastic' glue which melts plastic to create the bond...Then no. There's no getting around that, which is why I use superglue even on my plastic models - because you can usually just snap off any part, or use a knife and then the part snaps off anyway.

[Yaktan]

Thank you for the help. For now I will let it be, since the magnet is on a flamer, and I don't need all of those. If I manage to put in another magnet backwards, I will look into one of those options.

[Zorg]

Rargh! Behold the Devourer of Hope and despair!

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because I am dumb I'm going to do the armour plates up like this:

Not much work on the tower as my delivery of skulls is still in a state of not being delivered - cursed Tzeentch seems to have trapped it an a warp eddy or something :/

[Jormengand]

Rargh! Behold the Devourer of Hope and despair!

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because I am dumb I'm going to do the armour plates up like this:

Not much work on the tower as my delivery of skulls is still in a state of not being delivered - cursed Tzeentch seems to have trapped it an a warp eddy or something :/

Poor, Poor guardsman.

[Eldan]

I just love that kind of Chaos models. Those with clean lines on the model, instead of being totally overloaded with details, like many of them are, especially the monsters. That's a beautiful machine, that.

[Zorg]

He's not my normal scale guy, who seems to have gone AWOL, sadly.

Painting the underside was a nightmare of uncleanness made flesh (all those &*@#ing tubes took around seven hours to do).
But, yes, love the sleek aspect of it. The armour panels are all going to be gloss coated as well for extra slickness.

[Renegade Paladin]

Poor, Poor guardsman.

That is what Shadowswords are for, my friend.

[Forrestfire]

The brass scorpion is one of my favorite models. I can't wait to see the finished product.

[Zorg]

[Tome]

Now that is some sweet freehand there.

Also, Eldan, mind resizing that picture of the warp lightning cannon? It's kind of screen-stretching.

[Jormengand]

Thought I might share some pics for my attempt to recreate the bridge on Terra.

[Korra]

Impressive that's better than I could do.

[Zorg]

Thanks, Tome :)


Jor, you need a scale dude :p Looking great so far - what're you using to make it (tool/materials)?

[Jormengand]

Jor, you need a scale dude :p Looking great so far - what're you using to make it (tool/materials)?

That massive board is 2 ft by 2 ft. The Aquilla's wingspan is 10 inches. All of it is made of MDF board.

[Zorg]

Jor, that's... large Looking forward to seeing it more assembled






More pics:

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[Jormengand]

Jor, that's... large Looking forward to seeing it more assembled

Oh, trust me, you will.

Also, your model is looking pretty cool. I still, however, feel sorry for that poor guardsman.

How would you lovely people go about converting a marine captain into a Custodian?

[Cheesegear]

How would you lovely people go about converting a marine captain into a Custodian?

This is the guide I used, granted, it has very little to do with the actual Captain parts.

[Jormengand]

This is the guide I used, granted, it has very little to do with the actual Captain parts.

It... doesn't seem to load an actual guide.

[Keris]

It... doesn't seem to load an actual guide.

You need to chop the / off the end.
http://blog.spikeybits.com/2011/10/h...onversion.html

[Jormengand]

You need to chop the / off the end.
http://blog.spikeybits.com/2011/10/h...onversion.html

Okay, that looks cool. I even have some of those bitz.

[AgentPaper]

Hey all, I've decided to come back and start painting my Skaven army again. So far, I'm just starting with the Slaves, to try and get a hand on painting again (not that I was ever great at it), and this is what I've done so far:

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That's after a basic black basecoat sprayed on, and a single layer of (not yet dried) paint.

Any tips on what to do next? This is actually about as far as I ever got with any of my figures, so I don't really know exactly how to use washes. Do I just paint them on like any other paint? Which washes should I use for which areas? (I have a black wash, a sepia wash, and an armor wash. I can figure out where to use the last one, but not the first two)

[Eldan]

The black basecoat is still showing through. That is, incidentally, why I recommended white basecoat. At this stage, you want to add more watery coats of skin colour until they cover the black. That may take seemingly forever.

After that, you can paint details or drybrush the fur, if you want, then wash everything for the details. I recommend a reddish wash for the skin and a brown wash for everything else.

[Jormengand]

The black basecoat is still showing through. That is, incidentally, why I recommended white basecoat.

I would recommend layering up from black undercoat - trying to do it from white directly has never agreed with me.